Free Sample
The Purple Guide to Learning Surfing in 10 Days
A 10-Day On-Ramp to Your First Surfable Wave — No Hype, No Hidden Costs, Just a Real Plan
by Alumigogo Books
Chapter 1: First Day
The version of surfing you see in movies is mostly sunsets and triumph. The version you'll experience today is a beach, a foam board, some cold water, and a lot of your own muscles going "Huh. Interesting." Before you get in the water, let me set your expectations correctly, because nobody did this for me my first time.
Today is not about standing up on a wave. Today is not about catching a wave at all in the traditional sense. Today is about three things: getting comfortable in the water with a board, learning how to sit on that board without tipping over, and — the one real win — catching a broken wave lying on your stomach and riding it all the way to the sand. That's it. That's the whole first session. And if you get that one, you've had a successful day one.
Here's the step-by-step of what you'll actually do. You'll park (or walk down to) the beach, ideally during an hour where the surf is small and gentle. I'm talking about waves that are knee-to-waist high, no bigger. Beginners should look for a "gentle beach break" — this means the waves break over sand, not rocks, and they're not too powerful. If possible, find a spot where other beginners are already sitting in the water. That's a reliable sign it's a good porch for learning.
Your gear, assumed for today: a long, thick foam surfboard — often called a "soft-top" or