Free Sample
The Complete Handbook of Self Tanner
A Professional's Guide to Formulation, Selection, Application, and Business Strategy
by Alumigogo Books
Chapter 1: Understanding Self Tanner
The Chemistry of a Temporary Tan
Self tanner is not a dye or a stain. It is a chemical reaction that occurs on the surface layer of your skin. The active ingredient in virtually all self tanners is dihydroxyacetone, commonly abbreviated as DHA. This simple three-carbon sugar reacts with amino acids present in the dead cells of the stratum corneum, which is the outermost layer of the epidermis. This reaction, a type of Maillard reaction, produces brown-colored compounds called melanoidins. The same chemical process is responsible for the browning of food when it is cooked, such as the crust on bread or the color of roasted coffee beans.
Understanding this mechanism is the first step to professional-level control over the outcome. The color produced is not a pigment that sits on top of the skin; it is a chemical alteration within the skin cells themselves. This has two important consequences. First, the tan will fade as the skin naturally exfoliates, which takes roughly three to seven days depending on your cell turnover rate and your exfoliation habits. Second, because the reaction requires contact with amino acids, the depth of the color depends on the concentration of DHA applied, the pH of the product, and the condition of your skin surface.
DHA is used at varying concentrations, typically ranging from 1% to 15% in consumer products. A product containing 3% DHA will produce a light to medium tan. A product containing 8% DHA will produce a